Hang your door before finishing, then remove to finish properly. Our doors come ready for finishing (sanded to 150 grit or better). I suggest you look over the door with an intense light at an angle to the door so you can see sort of a reflection or sheen. Look carefully for any finger prints, handling marks or scratches left in the finish from sanding or shipping. You can sand them out with 220 grit sandpaper, making sure you sand with the grain. Remove all the dust. Note: Avoid finishing too soon after damp weather and during periods of higher than average humidity. See Finishing Recommendations below.)

Poplar

A poplar door may have olive streaks or an olive green cast. Don't fret. When poplar is exposed to the sunlight or simply over time it turns golden and the darker green streaks turn brown. If you are using a dark reddish stain like mahogany the green hue will not be a factor. However, if you want a clear, light colored or yellowish finish, and your door will not get any sunlight after it is installed. You may want to expose your door to direct, yet controlled (not letting it get too hot) sunlight for a couple days letting it "brown" before finishing.

(Do Not let your door be exposed to high humidity or wet weather before finishing).

Red Oak

Oak is very porous. You may want to use a paste wood filler to even the finish before staining. This process requires some know how, and I suggest you ask your paint dealer about the IN's and OUT's. Paste Filler is in no way required. It is mostly used to make a high gloss or very flat surface. If you do not use a paste wood filler the surface will be more natural and you will be able to feel the grain.

Stains

There are many on the market. The most popular are Minwax pigment stains. The pigment "sticks" and "fills" the softer early wood and often times accentuates any small scratches left from sanding. I highly recommend you use the harder to find gel or dye stains. But if you cannot find them at your paint store, you should use a pre-stain before applying pigment stains. I like to brush then hand wipe pigment stains. Gel stains are usually wiped on with a rag. Buy a pair of rubber gloves, you'll be glad you did. And follow the instructions, I never used to; I've learned the hard way.

Finishing Recommendations

See Finishing 

Highlights

Spar (Marine) Varnishes are the best exterior finishes for wood screen doors. It takes at least three coats of spar varnish to get a good finish. And you must sand between coats with a high grit sandpaper or steel wool; following all manufacturer recommendations. Brush lightly with the grain being careful; not leaving any excess material to run. The most common mistake in finishing is to put it on too thick. I like to take a clean, dry, brush to absorb any excess varnish. The second most common mistake is to finish the door on its hinges, getting paint, stain or varnish all over the hardware and making impossible to finish all six sides evenly and properly. The third most common mistake is to much dust in the air.

Oil finishes are easier to apply and maintain but require frequent maintenance coats for adequate moisture and ultraviolet protection. We do not recommend these finishes! But, since many painters and homeowners choose to go against our recommendations, some of the better but not recommended products are Daley's Marine Teak Oil or Watco Marine Oil, meeting or exceeding manufacturer recommendations. We have also had several bad experiences with Log Oil, and Sikens Brand products, and until we further test them, warn you against their use on our screen doors.

Should you Paint your door, a compatible primer should be applied as a first coat. At least 2 additional coats of an exterior rated ENAMEL PAINT is recommended. Remember all 6 sides, remove any panels and paint all end grain especially well. All other paint finishes are not recommended!

Special Considerations

* All finishes will perform measurably better if protected from the direct effects of sunlight and weathering. In fact, if your door is exposed to full sun and/or rain for the better part of the day or year, we do not recommend you purchase a wood screen door! Wood by it's nature expands and contracts with heat and moisture. Screen doors are thinner than your front doors and are more likely to warp or crack. We reason that most of us would not maintain our screen doors as is required for such extreme conditions! If you believe you are an exception to the rule, and will maintain your door according to the requirements of our doors and your environment, you have our blessing, and we wish you many years of working pleasure. * Note we use slightly rustic poplar & oak in our selection process resulting in color and grain variations for effect.* All doors should be sealed and finished within 15 days of receipt.* These recommendations are compatible with our Limited ("Satisfaction Guaranteed") Warranty.